PARIS FASHION WEEK: MENSWEAR SS25 DAY 6 RECAP
words by ELIYA WEINSTEIN and EMMANUELLE PLANTIER
editor MAREK BARTEK
SACAI
“I think the prime reason for existence, for living in this world, is discovery.” This iconic sentiment from James Dean became the starting point for Chitose Abe’s SS25 Collection for Sacai. Dean’s spirit, that which keeps him alive, gains a sartorial reimagination as the starting point of her signature style of hybridization. Womenswear gains architectural shoulders and exaggerated volumes, with deconstructed and reinventive shapes. Dean’s Harrington jacket is hybridised in the classic Sacai fashion, with vintage car and flower prints adding a care-free, playful attitude. Model’s carry youthful, academia inspired accessories symbolic of the drive to discover. Hybrids of the Type I, II and III jackets are reimaged through a new collaboration with Levi’s with deconstructed details and attachments to pants that create a new style of overall.
BED J.W. FORD
Shinpei Yamagishi’s SS2025 collection for Bed J.W. Ford comes from an all too familiar feeling of longing for rest. Worn throughout time, necessities weighing down pockets, ties loosened around the neck, each represents a little reality in the life of a hard worker. The collection honours the little moments of happiness we allow ourselves in the flurry of our lives. While the collection remains chic, sleeves are rolled up, lapels flap in the wind, tailoring is loosened, and layers are stripped of pretentiousness. Colours are fun, and flow together with a refreshing energy.
WOOYOUNGMI
WOOYOUNGMI explores the styles that have cross pollinated between Korea and the United States since the early 20th century. The Spring 2025 menswear collection is the brands most artisanal to date, where a conversation between the past and future is realised through hand-executed craftsmanship in both traditional and contemporary techniques. Tapestry trucker suits and woven bags evoke the beauty of the South Korean natural landscape. Details derive from baseball and collegiate prep are laced throughout the collection in interpretations of outerwear and ¾ length slim jeans. While relaxed, the collection is underlined with a formal visual language, styled with neckties and shirts, and silk jackets and coats with the sensibility of oriental temple cloths.
ZIGGY CHEN
Titled “Gnartricate”, Ziggy Chen’s SS25 collection is an interplay between beauty and decadence, chaos and rigour, elegance and comfort. Fusing gnarled branches and intricate to create a new word and concept, what used to be hidden comes into light, like disruptive branches growing and spreading disorderly. Faded colours adorn the loose shirts and pants, reminiscent of the inevitable passing of time. Silhouettes are flowing evoking ease and naturalness. Sunglasses worn like a cross-body show an effortlessly cool attitude enhanced by the fluidity of the movements brought by the purposely disordered styling.
DOUBLET
Y2K meets sportswear for the Doublet SS25 collection. Taking the concept of “oshi” (people being really involved in someone’s life, whether they know it or not) at the heart of the creative process, Masayuki Ino presents a fresh and poppy wardrobe, channelling baby pink and leopard print. Softly open cardigans paired with biker shorts are at the crossroad between chic and practical, whereas technical vests and pocket-covered jumpsuits bring utilitarian wear to the runway. Anime-like prints bring a touch of kawaii aesthetic, reminding us of Sailor Moon. Cheerleading poms used as accessories are a smart and efficient reminder of the concept of the runway, and makes us want to cheer for Doublet.
TAAKK
The newest TAAKK collection embodies softness and reverie. Takuya Morikawa invited intricate embroideries similar to architectural details to grace shirts, pants and jackets. Playing with transparence thanks to delicate appliqué on black mesh, the romantism of this collection is breathtaking. Playing with soft hues and oscillating between tamed pink, blue and green, black takes the centre stage to tell this beautiful story. Lines are flowing and allow the body to be free, showing that comfort and class go together.
