PARIS FASHION WEEK: MENSWEAR SS25 DAY 5 RECAP

words by EMMANUELLE PLANTIER
editor MAREK BARTEK

MAXZARASTERCK

Dutch designer Max Zara Sterck presented her S/S25 collection at Paris Fashion Week, showing her unique aesthetic to the world. She further developed her signature silhouettes, working with diagonal lines to elongate the body. Her relationship to movement and bodies is largely inspired by her career as a professional gymnast. Referencing an injury that put an end to her future in gymnastics, she extensively plays with cut-outs and ‘bandage’ strips of fabric. To implement movement in her creations, the designer wraps fabric onto the models’ bodies and brings it to life by analysing its flow. Drifting from her usual black and white designs, this season’s collection saw mellow yellow, reds and faded blues appearing on the garments, as well. 

ASLAN

Avant-garde jewelry brand Aslan unveiled its Spring/Summer 2025 collection “Adapt or Die”. It is a daring new line that refuses to live in the past and channels a raw and untamed spirit characteristic of the brand. ‘Dirt, lust, filth and mosh’ are the mantra of this line, showcased on belt buckles and t-shirts. Each piece is a statement against conformism that pushes the limits of the acceptable. Embracing rawness and rebellion, the “Not Throwing Stars” earrings come in two sizes and resemble ninja stars, for a cutting-edge style. Bags, headwear and footwear compose this collection, halfway through functionality and conceptual fashion, using lamb leather, sheep or goat hair appearing on both ballerinas and boots. 

FILIPPA K 

Chic and classic never miss, people at Filippa K know it well. The newest Spring/Summer 2025 collection was a collaboration between the former creative director Liisa Kessler and her successor Anna Teurnell. It showcased a look that fits every occasion. In a symphony of pristine tailoring, twists on timeless pieces and mastered neutrals, Filippa K presents a casual and relaxed closet. The capris trend is in full swing and appears in multiple colours, whereas loafers bring an air of vacation to the looks. Bags were made of supple black leather evoking an office case. 

SANKUANZ 

With an inspiration rooted in Asian mythology, Sankuanz S/S25 show invoked demons and old deities. With a tailoring oscillating between traditional Western shapes and oversized wrapped garments typically found in Asia, the collection embraces both cultures to create a unique style. Golden hip-hugging belts and elongated long sleeves redefine proportions of suits, jackets and workwear pieces. Collars were extended from behind the neckline, giving movement to the silhouette. The dagger (Sankuanz’s trademark) has been updated across high heels, boots and bags, further affirming the brand’s identity.  

HERMÈS

Hermès’ latest runway presentation was an invitation to escape the mundaneness, drink Aperol Spritz and sail to St-Tropez. Véronique Nichanian channelled a summer in swell destinations where worries don’t exist and finding the perfect tailoring is a way of life. The Hermès man is casually cool and concerned with an excellent construction of the garments. Nodding to the house’s equestrian origins, horse prints were sported on T-shirts and short sleeved shirts. Neutrals took the centre stage accompanied with soft browns and deeper shades of blue. Leather goods resembling travel bags complemented the looks, emphasising the desire for a bright vacation. 

LOEWE 

Surrounded by artefacts designed by contemporary artists, Loewe S/S25 show is a declaration of poetry, romantism and dreamlike fantasy. The huge feathers adorning the models’ faces were intriguingly fascinating, and made us wonder if that runway was a love letter to classic literature. Impressive folding techniques led the way for this collection, bringing endless movement to pants and made the tops look like an elegant pencil stroke. Jonathan Anderson’s mastery of ample yet precise lines infuse life to skirts, shirts and reduced leather capes. Sequins tank top met black pant suits, because dazzle and chic are Loewe’s mantra. Proportions were perfectly thought through, as seen on cinched blazers with oversized sleeves, and latex imitated wool of sweaters and denim of shorts, for a unique touch of Loewe’s humour. 

KIDSUPER

Kidsuper’s S/S25 runway was an impressively grandiose show. In a festival of dance, music and lightshow, Colm Dillane presented a beautiful collection representing a mad and over-the-top circus, where deconstruction, innovation and avant-garde reigned as equals. There was no room for minimalism, every garment was elevated in a piece of art, inspirations from John Galliano to early Jean-Paul Gaultier brought back a time where fashion was highly provocative. Models strutted down the runway attached to giant robotic hands, like docile puppets. Dramatic clown-inspired outfits, oversized tulle dresses and models perched on stilts showcased the craziness of this fantastic world. 

ROMBAUT

Criticising celebrity culture and social media has never been as fun and edgy as in Rombaut’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Starting with fully black outfits, with the progression of the show we can see the garments lightening up, going from dark to light grey to end up in pure white. Strutting around a group of performers, the models displayed reconstructed garments locking their arms in a tender embrace. Entirely made of jersey, the collection showcases impressive folding and wrapping techniques creating loose fits. Mobile phones as accessories showed the superficiality of technologies and how they hinder us instead of setting us free. 

DRIES VAN NOTEN

For his farewell collection, Dries Van Noten invoked the house’s legacy on the runway. 69 looks were presented to showcase Dries’ impressive range and creativity. Long trench coats met reconstructed tailoring, golden embroideries, colourful windbreakers, florals, lamé, deep purples and bright peachy shades. You get it now: everything was there. The collection evolved from reworked silhouettes draped in navy blue, soft brown and black to a festival of coral, sunset orange and shiny metallics. Oversized scarves knotted around the model’s neck brought a touch of maximalism, and large bags made of fabric were the perfect addition to the look. A superb collection to wish Dries the best, and thank him for his remarkable contribution to the fashion world.  

cover image: DRIES VAN NOTEN via vogue.com