PARIS FASHION WEEK: MENSWEAR SS25 DAY 4 RECAP

words by ELIYA WEINSTEIN
editor MAREK BARTEK

HED MAYNER

Hed Mayner aimed to break free from his comfort zone for his SS25 Men’s collection. He challenged himself to focus on textiles to advance his signature manipulations of shape and proportion. The drooping of rounded shoulders and cocooning sleeves have a relaxed appeal throughout. British and Italian fabrics lent to a refined abstraction. Lightweight linen suits and trench coats with checkered cuffs rolled up appear puffed out, as if being blown through by the summer wind. Pinstripe fabrics remain crinkled and slits in cable knit sweaters expose the torso. Models walked a slim wooden plank with viewers sitting right off its edges, many in shoes with belted straps attached to wooden platforms. 

JACQUEMUS

While the show was held earlier this month, at Capri’s historic Casa Malaparte, Jacquemus invited the up-close discovery of their SS25 collection, “La Casa”. The purity of geometric shapes bursts with freshness familiar to the brand. Sensual and airy textures and minimal details allow the focus to fall on movement, whether in forms that hold their shape or grace the body like a whisper. A-lines are constructed like sculptures for tops, dresses and oversized lapels that triangulate the upper torso. Elsewhere, sheer mousseline is draped to reveal the side of the body from shoulder to knee. Zebra stripes complement the solid colors of most garments, which repeat a chic red, sandy yellow, kisses of blush pink, and Capri (how fitting) blue. The collection marks 15 years since the beginnings of Jacquemus, and succeeds as a hallmark of its consistent excellence in craftsmanship, contemporary artistry and beloved designs. 

JUUN J

“WORKOUTURE” emblazoned across the chest says it all at Juun.J’s SS25 collection. The show began with floor length denim gowns with mermaid skirts, matching bomber jackets with leather accents layered over. Cuts are refined, volumes are inflated, and textures are rough. Prominent shoulder silhouettes contrast each other. Sharp angles shape workwear jumpsuits, half sleeve hoodies and leather blazers while cap shoulders of striped dresses appear to float above the body. The collection is fiercely feminine, bringing heavy duty and high class codes together in mostly black and navy blue. The finale had the whole cast changed into electric blue mesh sports jerseys, all numbered 35, the count of Juun.J’s seasons. 

DIOR MEN

Larger than life cat sculptures based on the ceramics of Hylton Nel set the joyful mood for Dior’s SS25 Men’s collection. Kim Jones, in partnership with Nel, designed for the gentle, sensitive side of manhood. Animal doodles appear on outerwear and knitwear, in badges pinned to vests and jackets, and peak out on socks. While sleek and refined, the looks offer contemporary casual in soft browns, mellow blue, pink and yellow. Silhouettes are mostly straight for jackets inspired by artists and craft attire, exaggerated at times by missing or folded up lapels. The asymmetrical detail of pants that wrap around the waist and an abstracted trench coat are some of the heavier nods towards Dior’s womenswear archive. Hats designed by Stephen Jones were circled with ceramic beading by South African artisans like dew drops. Pieces were designed that speak to the Maison’s loyal customers who appreciate the level of craftsmanship that goes into its garments. “Dior for my real friends” embroidered onto knitwear was a special finishing touch. 

3.PARADIS

Emeric Tchatchoua feels a responsibility to express a unique identity through his label 3.Paradis. In his SS25 collection, he reflected on the realities of globalisation and the connections that we are blessed to make through modern technology. Together with artist Johanna Tardjman, the collection offers statement pieces that let color and print do the talking. The label’s signature dove’s as well as vintage flip phones and lego bricks are printed on vividly colored check patterns of holiday inspired sets. Denim forms the backbone of the collection with variations of jeans each designed with an illusion; open buttons exposing another pair of pants underneath, shorts layered over full length jeans, and six layers of branded belts. The collaboration with NBA, Paris Saint Germain Football Club, and Jordan Brand resulted in a varsity jacket and a soccer shirt, fittingly before the Olympic games. 

MIHARA YASUHIRO

Mihara Yasuhiro explored the way we build our personas through the mind of a child. The show reflected on how our identities develop from a place of innocence, the way we learn to choose what we want the world to see. Garments were constructed with intentional and meticulous haphazard. Like when a child first learns to dress themselves, proportions are grandiose and clothes aren’t worn the way they are meant to be. Instead, skin is exposed through deconstructed jeans, extra sleeves and pant legs hang behind the body, and ties remain undone. Stickers scatter thoughtfully on garments and in accessories, teddy bear bags in a range of sizes are the finishing touch. 

SAUDI100

The Saudi Fashion Commission held one of its Saudi100 international events where 10 of its 100 fashion designers showcased their menswear designs at Palais de Tokyo. As part of its economic diversification strategy, the Saudi100 is aimed at promoting emerging designers and building the international relations of Saudi Arabia’s fashion community. The selected brands to show were 1886, Mazrood, Awaken, Noura Sulaiman, Not Boring, House of Cenmar, Uscita, Noble & Fresh, RBA New York and KML. Altogether, the show presented a full profile of styles where something for anyone could be discovered, each designer maintaining a unique approach. Streetwear is offered by Awaken whose clean styles feature crisp edges and geometric cuts, as well as 1886 who’s baggier silhouettes and loose fitting layers are more laid back. House of Cenmar applies the streetwear aesthetic to classics like utility vests and aviator jackets. Noble & Fresh, Not Boring, KML and Noura Sulaiman design Ready-to-Wear for a more luxurious taste with a range from muted elegance to playful color combinations respectively. RBA New York’s natural materials have a relaxed flow to them, while Mazrood gives new shapes and forms to workwear in experimental color combinations. Uscita is making waves as Saudi Arabia’s first gender-fluid brand with a more relaxed take to classical evening wear. Saudi100 hosted a showroom for the 10 selected brands at Hotel Mona Bismarck around the days of their runway presentation for the collections to be discovered up close. 

BIRKENSTOCK

Birkenstock is celebrating a monumental 250 year anniversary, having invited press to their Parisian office to preview collections soon to come. Its humble beginnings as a family business have transformed into a global household name. They headed the footbed innovation, elevating sandals to a supportive wellness product. Now, Birkenstocks are a comfortable essential with styles and collaborations suiting designs to any wardrobe.

COMME DES GARÇONS HOMMES PLUS

Fête de la Musique was the perfect night for Comme des Garçons Hommes Plus to stage its SS25 runway for the collection titled “The Hope of Light”’. Rei Kawakubo reflected on the relationship between music and fashion through deconstruction and cubist expressions, backed by Erik Satie’s soundtrack to the ballet “Parade”. Models had their hair covered in rainbow hair clips, in some cases spiked into sharp mohawks. The show began in black and white, with voluminous collars lending an Elizabethian drama to contemporary suiting. Exaggerated ruffles continued on shoes, but on suit jackets they were replaced by jagged cuts and slices with raw edges when pink started playing in. A pink mid-calf length coat with black crocodile leather sleeves revealed its inner constructions, foreshadowing what was soon to come. But first, a crescendo of looks, fearless in their use of color and pattern. Simple and straight silhouettes of outerwear were radicalized with the help of dark florals, purple checks with a light reactive sheen and multicolored vertical stripes. The last looks of the collection featured tulle outerwear with inside out constructive details. Various fabrics were lumped and stuffed within the tulle, visible from the outside and weighing down the silhouette. The closing look was an extravaganza of glittery coloured polka dots in the same technique.  

Y-3

Y-3 presented its first runway show since 2019. Best known for contemporising sportswear, they divided the show into four distinct segments. It began with black suiting with elongated silhouettes and white embroidery uncut to remain as a dynamic fringe detail. Utility wear followed, integrating the Adidas three stripes in white on mesh gloves and socks. Pockets fit light and loose, leaving a draping effect. Then the show unveiled the Japanese national football team’s new uniforms, styled under simple suits and silken jackets. The final series of looks introduced color to technical garments. In green and turquoise, abstract aura and floral patterns contrasted to patchwork designs that color blocked red, blue and black. 

SONGZIO

“Bright Star”, Songzio’s SS25 collection, explores inescapable dualism that forms the world around us. Order and disorder become one in bold and avant-garde, simultaneously timeless garments. A balance is found in boxy jackets with asymmetrical pockets or contemporary trench coat codes. While silhouettes are sculptural, their oversized fits and subtle slits exposing skin introduce fluidity. Pink, green, blue and off-white in delicate hues are styled monochromatically, contrasting to full looks with the heavier weight of sleek black. 

AMERICAN SABOTAGE

After rumours had built anticipation in the PFW days prior, A$AP Rocky and AWGE finally debuted American Sabotage, their new fashion brand. Presented at Hôtel de Maisons, Karl Lagherfeld’s former home, the collection and brand as a whole was designed with revolution in mind. Every look and detail is aimed at shattering expectations through a distinctive language of art and activism. With the codes of ghetto fashions and many very slouchy jeans, Rocky explores political and societal shortcomings from police brutality, homelessness and problematic healthcare policies. Oversized silhouettes and distressed details are enmeshed with references to riot wear such as headwear that covers the face, a shirt that takes the form of a gasmask and the print of bulletproof vests on tops. In outerwear, the shape of bomber jackets is reworked to deliberately fit upside down, hammering in a metaphor for the perversion of current Americana. The call to action is clear… “DON’T BE DUMB”. 

JÉRÔME DREYFUSS

Jérôme Dreyfuss has settled into a new Parisian boutique at 4 rue du Marché Saint-Honor and celebrated the opening of the store this Fashion Week. The luxury of its leather goods is translated into the design of the space by architect Guillaume Van Wassenhove. The concept was built up from the most fundamental of building materials: the clay brick. Dreyfuss was enlightened during a trip to Rajasthan, India where he came across its use in its rawest form and returned to France with this in mind as inspiration. With the goal of using the maximum of local, raw materials the ground was covered entirely with bricks from the oldest brickworks in France, and recycled scaffolding was used for the ceiling. The new address has become the brand’s major point of sale in Paris. 

VANS

Vans welcomed the worlds of skateboarding, streetwear, fashion, art, and entertainment all at once to a massive Fête de la Musique and Go Skateboarding Day party below the Sacré-Coeur Basilica. OTW by Vans designed a large-scale skate installation and had their very own Skate Team hopping in and out of the bowl the whole night. A DJ Platform, with the classic Vans checkerboard, overlooked Paris from the top of Montmartre hill. JUSTICE and Kaytranda were amongst those who performed for the public. Vans hosted other events throughout this week, overall achieving a Paris takeover to set the stage high for their community engagement approach for the summer. 

cover image COMME DES GARÇON HOMMES PLUS via vogue.com