PARIS FASHION WEEK: MENSWEAR SS25 DAY 3 RECAP
words by ELIYA WEINSTEIN
editor MAREK BARTEK
HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE
Paris faces one of its rainiest summers this year, but Satoshi Kondo’s SS25 collection at Homme Plissé Issey Miyake invites an optimistic outlook, nonetheless. Walking through an installation by Vincent de Belleval in the courtyard of Moblier National, the collection displayed an immediate positive energy. Beach towel stripe and checkered patterns wrapped around the body, with bright orange and red colors evoking the warmth of summer sunset. After a sudden switch to monochrome, masterful layering techniques maintained a floating feeling for long sleeves and jackets. Each color was airy and light, as if viewed through the fog after rain settles. Big pleats ran from the neck to the ankle, as direct a line as raindrops falling. Protective hoods and headwear make the gloomy weather seem not so bad after all.
COURRÈGES
Nicolas Di Felice is waiting for his holiday to escape Paris, focusing only on the summer essentials for the SS25 collection of Courrèges. He dreams up a Maison collection of the 1970s, referencing groovy dresses that maintain graphic cuts and edges. Natural fabrics appear in black, slate gray, lipstick red and beige tones, and flashes of skin are revealed through geometric cuts. Each look upholds a bold, sleek structure crafted from lightweight materials that transition seamlessly from day to evening wear. Magic square mesh tops bare shoulders and backs in both mens and women’s garments, ready for the gleaming sun.
RICK OWENS
After the exclusivity of his last showcases, Rick Owens makes a theatrical return to Palais de Tokyo with his “White Satin Army of Love”. A spectacular showcase of Hollywood proportions, it was designed to welcome a wider fashion community and reflect on the need for unity in the current political climate. 10 all white looks, opposing all expectations of Rick, were repeated 20 times each on 200 street-cast models, friends and muses of the designer. Deconstructed garments in lightweight, flowing fabrics with statuesque visual language referenced ancient dress codes and Hollywood’s Golden Age. Floor length capes in silvery and sandy colors paired with last season’s balloon boots, this time deflated. Tank tops wrapped around the bodies of muscular models like bandages, with distressed cotton shorts and Geobaskets in beige to match. Sheer wispy tops were shaped with Rick’s signature boxy shoulders. Rather than a statement on what needs to change, Rick created a display of exactly how humans should come together to battle for peace.
BLUEMARBLE
In SS25, Bluemarble takes its cult following on an adventure, full of camouflage and heavy emphasis on utilitarian details. But taking lime green, sunny yellow and bright orange colour ways, the camo was meant to be seen. Oversized aviator hats were further exaggerated with bird feathers framing the face and upper body. The collection featured many variations of hooded sweatshirts: beneath coats, with missing arm sleeves, dropped into sparkling onesies, and blown up in proportion to become rainproof jackets. Mesh tank tops layered over T-shirts to exaggerate their sharply angled shoulders. For the evening, studded trench coats with pillow lapels take an unexpected sleeping bag reference in a glamorous direction.
SEAN SEUN
Sean Seun’s SS25 collection was an operatic love story sartorially tying together the East and West. The inspiration came from Mei Lanfang, known for his portrayal of female characters in the opera. Bending gender codes, the designs break tradition of Western suiting’s precise tailoring and the dress conventions of ancient Chinese nobility at once. The luxury of silky fabrics, masterful drapery and robe silhouettes are relaxed with youthful details like extra long sleeves and cuffed trousers. As with traditional white-collar suiting, black and white dominate in the collection, but light yellow, green and oriental red tones give a jolt of dynamic energy. Boots that look like the cut off ends of trousers add an extra layer of drapery around the ankle. Pearls make a delightful finishing touch, adorning woven headpieces, in masculine takes of body jewelry, and perched atop the points of shoes.
032C
In only the second collection of its young fashion line, 032c introduces a uniform for its die-hard community with its SS25 collection. By integrating references of Berlin nightlife into office wear, it acknowledges the cultural core of the magazine. Low waistlines and raised necklines fused into sharp, elongated silhouettes. Slivers of blue and white in collars and underlayers translate relatable corporate codes to contemporary edginess. It wouldn’t be Berlin without heavy use of black leather and cargo details in khaki green. The looks that played with white and neon orange, as well as sheer sparkly dresses captured the spotlight just as they would in a rave.
ARTURO OBEGERO
Arturo Obegero uses his 10th collection to look back at some of his favorite designs, and takes them into the world of Haute Couture. Vividly Spanish, he infuses designs with dynamic flamenco energy and references the beloved silhouettes of Cristobal Balenciaga. Laced into a joyful romanticism is a twist of gothic darkness that the designer resonates with deeply. Theatrical velvet and custom lace come together with deadstock fabrics, in fiery red and black throughout.
BURBERRRY
Burberry is all about its British heritage. In its Spring 2025 collection, while Daniel Lee maintains a relatable countryside comfortability, he offers delightful contemporary iterations off classic checks and trenches. Transitioning between lightweight, flowy materials and more technical, protective outerwear ensures styles suited for the unpredictability of the English weather. On suede and leather, laser cut flowers offer a new approach to floral print. Greens, pinks and blues are joyful, but subtle and delicate like shy flowers on their first bloom.
SULVAM
“Not Afraid” is the title of Sulvam’s SS25 collection, in line with designer Teppei Fujita’s vision to cross casual and formal codes. Japanese denim is used widely throughout, along with colorful knitwear and distinct antique floral patterns. A blue tie-dye motif and pinstripe sets carry a carefree and dynamic energy that come together with versatility. This season, Sulvam’s “Classic Line” introduces styles for women, many of which are developed from original wool gabardine.
OUEST
OUEST Paris escapes reality through the Western Americana festish, taking its denim uniform on an adventure of sun and sand. They carve out a fantasy of their own: sexy surfing cowboys. While short shorts make an appearance, the boxy jort silhouette reigns supreme in California pastel washes and leather. To appear as if fresh from the surf, denim jeans and jackets are faded, sun-bleached and crumpled. Tribal prints and shark’s emblazoned across the chest offer the 90’s surf cliche but with the edge of black and white leather. Vintage wetsuits are repurposed into patchwork biker vests and chaps ready for the waves and the wind or whatever else the day brings.
