words by ELIYA WEINSTEIN
editor MAREK BARTEK

ISABEL MARANT

Isabel Marant’s SS25 collection was revealed in a series of photographs by Robin Galiegue, presenting her vision for a man who is casual, yet composed. Her collection toys between cool and grungy, toning down the intensity of tartans and denim with gentle pastel pink and grey-blue hues. Jackets, tops and jeans are subtly eclectic, featuring embellishments of Ikat embroidery that originate from Southeast Asia. Denim, corduroy and leather pants were made to look worn in with comfortable silhouettes, resulting in a romantically nostalgic feel. 

all images ISABEL MARANT via showstudio.com
ACNE STUDIOS

Creative Director Jonny Johansson explores the transformative superpowers of clothing in Acne Studios’ SS25 collection. He dramatized the devil-may-care attitude of the superhero archetype, while maintaining a childlike perspective. Just like the femme fatales icons that appear in the graphics of the collection, tailoring focuses on the waistline with many slim or second skin tops. Trompe l’oeil of plastic keychains, stacked belts and denim patchwork feature on garments and accessories. Muted and rusty colors contrast with faded blush pink and powder blue, garment dyed to appear the way time takes its toll on childhood memories. 

all images ACNE STUDIOS provided by the brand
UNDERCOVER

Jun Takahashi’s Undercover’s SS25 collection was an expression of harmony, and a lesson in breaking beyond outdated borders. Patterns and textures referenced Asian, Middle Eastern and Baroque design, woven together seamlessly with hope for a unified utopian culture. The natural color scheme, featuring deep browns and navy’s balanced with delicate pastels and crème hues was powerful yet grounded. Monochromatic sportswear looks in collaboration with Champion offered a humbled alternative to the various proportions of loose-fitting layered looks. Masculinity was unwavering, even in the styles of floor length flowing dresses and skirts, angelic golden headpieces, and lace masks across the eyes.

all images UNDERCOVER via tag-walk.com
FENG CHEN WANG

Feng Chen Wang traveled to the future for SS25, an airy collection that played on expectations for utilitarian and work wear. Looks were mainly monochromatic, rolling out in stages beginning with an almost-green gray, reaching a rich brown hue then black. Neckties and net polo shirts were layered under different interpretations of bomber jackets. Suit jackets were deconstructed with exposed lining, imaginatively duplicated pockets, and an inside out design. The final looks slowed the pace of the show, each completed by 3D printed platform rubber shoe covers that were designed in collaboration with Uggs.

all images FENG CHEN WANG via tag-walk.com
WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK

“I have seen the future” was the slogan of Walter Van Bierendonck’s SS25 collection. Backed with clown music and with clown smiles painted across models’ brooding faces, the looks offered a fallible optimism as a reflection on the current political landscape. Blown-up gingham prints referencing Dutch traditional wear, and bold graphic smileys featured throughout. Monochromatic looks in boyish blue and girlish pink were disrupted with childlike prints that featured unexpected grenades and guns. Proportions and dimensions were accentuated with layering, sheer materials, and feathery accents. By the end of the show, many looks featured theatrically structured outwear, gradually all blackening.

all images WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK via tag-walk.com
LOUIS GABRIEL NOUCHI

Known for referencing classic literature in each of his collections, Louis Gabriel Nouchi presented “Under My Skin”. The SS25 collection is based on “Perfume: The Story of a Murderer” by Patrick Süskind. He focused heavily on the way texture triggers the curiosity of sensation the way horror beckons us despite our fears. Material resembling hair and layers of leather maintained a fully black and blood red color palette. Sharp and bold tailoring, signature to LGN, was broken up with vertical slits to bare open chests. While they adhered to the gruesome theme, each garment’s day-to-day wearability was represented in the inclusive open casting of models. 

all images LOUIS GABRIEL NOUCHI via tag-walk.com
WALES BONNER

Aside from unveiling her latest rendition of the Adidas Samba, Wales Bonner offered both leisurely and elegant evening wear in her SS25 collection. Taking inspiration from the nightlife of the Caribbean, the collection blurred the lines between what should be worn on the beach or off. Deep red speedo style shorts featured in multiple looks, paired with a striped polo tee, a layered knit vest, and a variety of leather jackets. A natural ease and vibrancy was expressed in the brightly colored flower prints of several garments and hats. The show transitioned to black and white elegance with ease, just as nightfall does over the coastline. 

all images WALES BONNER via tag-walk.com
KENZO

Paris, it’s a jungle out there… Or at least it is for Kenzo in their SS25 collection with its array of tropical and floral prints and embroidery that brought the two landscapes together. Moss and lime green were prominent hues, in silk trousers, crochet dresses and a number of ankle length trench coats. Bright salmon and lemon yellow featured in asymmetrical evening looks like minidresses with geometric stripes and a number of garments finished with fine fringe. It wouldn’t be a jungle without fauna, which appeared in pins and patches embellishing net materials, and of course the tiger backpack peaking over the shoulder. 

all images KENZO via hypebeast.com