words by MAREK BARTEK

BURC AKYOL

If there’s one thing Burc Akyol excels at, it’s blurring the lines of gender expression, and his Spring/Summer 2025 collection showcases this skill with finesse. The French-Turkish designer draws inspiration from the sensuality of Studio 54, presenting it in a streamlined, sophisticated manner reminiscent of Bianca Jagger’s iconic white suit. The show opened with a masterfully tailored double-breasted jacket, complemented by white chiffon harem pants and a silk headscarf. This 1970s allure infused the majority of the collection, with the white tuxedo shirt reimagined as a tunic exposing tailored bell-bottom trousers. Another look featured these trousers paired with a sleeveless peplum top, evoking Jacques de Bascher’s androgynous spirit.

all images BURC AKYOL via vogue.com

The collection reached its zenith with a series of silhouettes crafted from sheer fabrics, something  Akyol’s designs were getting a lot of recognition for in recent years. A black floor-length dress, with draping that covered the bust and exposed the torso, and a dramatic satin gown paired with a see-through mini worn on top, made bold modern statements on nighttime attire. All these elements come together in a perfect harmony to show us Akyol’s masterful blending of gender-fluid fashion with the timeless allure of the 1970s.

LOUIS VUITTON

As the introduction to the latest Louis Vuitton collection says: “The Louis Vuitton Spring-Summer 2025 Men’s Collection celebrates the humans that co-inhabit the Earth.” With 66 looks, Pharrell Williams created a profound homage to humanity and unity that binds us all. Showed on the rooftop of La Maison de l’UNESCO with skin tones of models progressing from the dark to white, Williams truly plays on senses and celebration of diversity. 

Rooted deeply in the ideas of global community and reflecting core values of Louis Vuitton: discernment, savoir-faire, and travel, Pharrell collaborated with Air Afrique, an African-French cultural platform dedicated to the expansion of Afro-diasporic arts, conversations and knowledge.

all images LOUIS VUITTON via vogue.com

Inspired by archetypal travelers, from pilots to diplomats, explorers to leisure travelers, each piece is crafted keeping Louis Vuitton’s commitment to excellence in mind — be that that use of superfine fabrics, detailed embroideries, and innovative textures. While the pilot archetype builds silhouettes on garments like the aviation dress from cropped tailored jackets or bombers, flight suits and camionneur-collared knitwear, the diplomat focuses on double-breasted coats and suits with the straight or flared sculpting. As the other two archetypes show, we can see variations of tracksuits and workwear. They are refined in construction and cut, and created around the  idea of comfort. The explorer plays with themes of sportswear, taking inspiration from football, the world’s most unifying game in particular.

The collection’s palette, inspired by the nuances of human skin, transitions seamlessly from dark to light. Though from distance, the collection might seem muted and monotone, on closer inspection, intricate savoir-faire comes to life with sensorial and sensory impact. The intricate details, from hand-embroidered patterns to pearl-adorned garments, highlight the labor-intensive artistry behind each piece. The accessories, including heritage-inspired bags and aviator-themed sunglasses, complement the collection’s travel-centric theme.

cover image: LOUIS VUITTON via vogue.com